Why Porto?

Saturday / Sunday

Having the luxury of seven days in a small European city, with limited time to plan, gave us the opportunity to play it by ear, ask locals for recommendations, and alleviate the usual stress of trying to see everything in just two or three days. We left from Charlotte to Newark on Saturday afternoon, followed by an under-six-hour flight to Porto, arriving around 7 a.m.

Our Airbnb was booked through Feel Porto, which included airport transfers both ways and luggage storage until our unit was ready. We had planned to do a quick change and refresh before heading out for the day. However, the driver didn’t speak any English, so there was a little miscommunication—and that idea didn’t work out. We stayed with our heavy totes and airplane clothes and set up at Manteigaria, a local bakery, to plan the remainder of the day.

My first bite was the infamous pastel de nata, a Portuguese custard tart with subtle sweetness. You can find them almost anywhere in Porto and Lisbon. There’s a longstanding debate over which city and bakery makes the best one, but personally, as long as it’s warm and fresh, I’m satisfied.

With the whole day ahead of us, we decided to get tickets for the hop-on hop-off bus to get the lay of the land. This was surprisingly perfect. The three of us drifted in and out of sleep in the sun, taking in the sights for about two hours. We walked around the city and grabbed a late lunch at the Time Out Market before collecting our luggage and checking into our spacious and clean Airbnb in a prime location right across from the Bolhão Market. Porto is hilly but extremely walkable—we only used Uber twice the entire week.

Later that evening, we stopped at Torto, a moody, music-themed cocktail bar with a warm staff. I typically find the creative cocktail scene overrated, but this place was both reasonably priced and genuinely innovative. I ordered my usual dirty martini. I loved how they first served half in the smallest martini glass I’ve ever seen, with the rest chilling in the fridge until you’re ready for it.

We then walked to our first and only pre-booked dinner reservation at Flow. Our experience there was all-around incredible. We started with perfectly made cocktails, while they served complimentary bread with four different unique butters—from sesame to coffee butter. I ordered the beef tartare to start; it was great but a little too salty for me. I ordered the sea bass for my main and loved it. One thing we noted throughout the trip was that the portion sizes were surprisingly large, and even the nicest restaurants were reasonably priced.

Monday

With the whole day to explore, we slept in and wandered into Nicolau for brunch. They served fluffy eggs on milk bread, fresh-squeezed juices, and vibrant yogurt or açaí bowls. Again, everything was delicious and well-priced. Service is good but slow, like most European countries. You never feel rushed by the staff, which is great—you’re expected to flag down your server for the check.

Next, we walked about 20 minutes to Livraria Lello, the most gorgeous bookstore with rich wood and a red velvet staircase. It served as J.K. Rowling’s muse for Harry Potter. We bought tickets to skip the line for €12, which included a free book from their collection. It was extremely overcrowded and overstimulating even for a Monday afternoon, so brace yourself for the chaos.

We spent the rest of the afternoon getting lost in various boutiques full of handmade pottery. Anytime we go to Europe, we stop at Caudalie, a popular French skincare brand that’s half the price in Europe. They have the sweetest sales reps, always throwing in a couple of items free of charge with our purchase.

Later that evening, we had dinner at Brasão for a notorious Portuguese dish: the Francesinha. It’s a hearty sandwich layered with various meats between bread, covered in melted cheese, and soaked in a tomato and beer-based sauce. I’ll be honest—this dish sounds right up my alley, but I didn’t love it! A little too heavy for me and lacking in flavor. However, there are plenty of other places to try the dish if you’re curious.

Tuesday

Today we had our first scheduled tour—a boat cruise through Sailing 360 that included port wine tastings while sailing along the Douro River. We sampled three different types of port. It was a great afternoon with breathtaking scenery.

As beautiful as Porto is, there’s a noticeable number of abandoned buildings covered in graffiti. Our guide explained that it’s a huge problem for the city, due to strict building laws. Few can afford to purchase and revitalize the properties, so they sadly decay between the colorful tiled buildings.

We had lunch on the rooftop of Portobello, then walked around the bustling neighborhood of Gaia. Our next bite was one of my favorites—the traditional Portuguese hot dog from Gazela. Served on a thin, crispy roll, finished with melted cheese, then cut into bite-sized pieces—it was the perfect afternoon snack.

Makenzie and Lauren walked back to Jardim do Morro, where a nightly tradition takes place. Hundreds of people gather to watch the sunset, drink, and listen to music. It’s a friendly atmosphere, perfect for socializing with both tourists and locals.

For dinner, we went to KOB, where you can feast on various cuts of beef from all over the world. It was incredible—from the service, to the atmosphere, to the food. I highly recommend it, especially if you’re growing tired of seafood and in need of something substantial after walking 20,000 steps a day.

Wednesday

The following day, we had a full Douro Valley tour booked. We met our guide at a local café, conveniently a 10-minute walk from our apartment. Our guide was a delightful 24-year-old local student named Manuel. We were paired with a lovely couple from California.

The drive took about 1.5 hours through the winding valleys. If you’re prone to motion sickness, come prepared—I typically wear Sea-Bands and motion sickness patches.

Right off the bat, Manuel teased some of us for traveling to Lisbon before Porto. It quickly became clear how fierce the rivalry between the two cities is. The drive through the vineyards was breathtaking, with acres of nature and tradition blending in perfect harmony—some of the oldest valleys in the world.

Learning about Manuel’s love for Porto was equally charming. He spoke passionately about how important hospitality is to locals, how much they love tourists, and how eager they are to share Porto’s traditions with the rest of the world. When I compare it to my experience in Lisbon, I’d have to agree—there’s an added layer of warmth from the people of Porto that’s uncanny.

We stopped at some of the vines to try the grapes, then headed to a quinta (wine estate) for a tasting. There, we tried a few different types of olive oil and port wine. Then we enjoyed a short boat ride along the Douro River, nestled between rich green slopes, where they served champagne.

After we were feeling a little tipsy, we met back up with Manuel and traveled to the nearby town of Amarante. We visited the Saint Francis Church, where his burial site lies. Catholics visit the site for good luck in matchmaking and fertility. We then had lunch in town, enjoying fried codfish, rice cooked in tomato broth, and chorizo grilled to perfection—one of my favorite meals of the trip.

During lunch, we learned more about the couple—two people in their 60s from Orange County, so noticeably in love that we had to pick their brains. The woman was Czechoslovakian and managed to escape the then-communist country on foot with her daughter and boyfriend in 1989. By sheer luck, she was granted citizenship by the Spanish Embassy. She graciously shared the heartbreaking story, describing their luck as “nothing short of a miracle from God.”

Manuel told us more about himself. As the top of his class in business school, he dreams of moving to the United States to work for Deloitte. He said it’s virtually impossible to land a position with large companies in Portugal, as there’s very little opportunity. Portugal is a socialist democracy, and as Manuel explained, it’s easy to live a peaceful, stable life—but extremely difficult to achieve beyond that unless you’re born into privilege.

The country was under a dictatorship only 51 years ago. After a high level of corruption and scandal within the Socialist Party in 2024, there have been recent government changes favoring the center-right Democratic Alliance. However, “the right” by Portuguese standards still aligns more closely with “the left” in the United States for context.

On the ride home, Manuel dove deeper into the rivalry between Porto and Lisbon, his love for soccer, and how much Cristiano Ronaldo is treated as royalty in Portugal—“Ronaldo is the closest we have to a king!” The life-sized figures, statues, and shops dedicated to Ronaldo make a lot more sense now. The city rivalry is so strong, they even refuse to serve Lisbon-based beer. If you want to get on their good side, order the local Super Bock, a light beer they seem to drink like water.

The Douro Valley tour was about seven hours round trip and cost $98 per person. There are longer tours that visit multiple estates, up to 11 hours round trip, but seven was plenty for us.

We had dinner at a new restaurant, Lolla. Candidly, it wasn’t a great meal, but the atmosphere was perfect for a night out. We walked to Galeria de Paris Street, where the most popular bars are located. Other than the police patrolling the main strip, it feels a bit lawless, with men openly selling substances in plain sight—so definitely keep your head on a swivel.

It was a lively street with most bar-hoppers mingling on patios before the inside transforms into a club-like atmosphere around 1 a.m. We, of course, had to end the night at the McDonald’s, known as “the most beautiful McDonald’s in the world.”

Thursday / Friday

Thursday morning, we had another delicious brunch—this time at Zenith (highly recommend!). We had the perfect slow-paced afternoon walking all over the city, stopping at places that caught our interest earlier in the week. Rua de Cedofeita is a historic street in Porto with boutiques full of great finds at affordable prices. We spent several hours there, then walked through the Crystal Palace Gardens before settling at Bosco Garden Bar for a few drinks.

This is the perfect place to unwind amidst the stylish atmosphere, greenery, and views overlooking the city. We set up camp and people-watched with my favorite drink—a pornstar martini made with fresh passion fruit and prosecco.

For our last day, we took an Uber about 20 minutes to Praia da Luz, one of several beach clubs in the area. It was packed and short-staffed, so avoid if you’re crunched for time. Unsurprisingly, the food and drinks were great. We snacked on edamame and ordered caprese sandwiches on focaccia.

After lunch, I made my friends walk about 45 minutes to Dom Peixe, a local seafood restaurant off the beaten path. I saw one TikTok of this place and decided to give it a try. The chef prepares and cooks the fish next to the tables in an outdoor kitchen, which was really fun to witness.

I had one thing on my mind when traveling to Dom Peixe: trying barnacles, the Portuguese delicacy. They grow on wave-battered rocks along the Atlantic, especially in dangerous spots where the surf is strongest. Because harvesting them is risky, they’re considered one of Portugal’s more expensive seafood treats.

The waiter came out with a pound of cold barnacles. I sneakily watched a brief video on how to eat them and dove right in. Once you get to the meat, the texture is similar to squid and tastes more oceanic than fishy. I happily polished off the entire plate.

If you’re looking for unique, handmade pottery, I highly recommend Nu. The artist is @manusouzaceramics on Instagram, and they ship globally.

We stopped in on our way to dinner at Boa-Bao, an incredible Asian restaurant with an upscale street-food vibe. It was packed the entire evening, so I’d make a reservation next time. I ordered the dim sum flight and beef pho. It was the perfect way to button up the week before heading home the following morning.

Lisbon or Porto?

This may be a biased opinion—having only spent three days in Portugal’s capital—but if you have to choose between the two, I’d visit Porto over Lisbon.

Porto feels real. Its charm comes from lived-in neighborhoods ranging from old tiled façades to abandoned buildings. Lisbon can sometimes feel curated for visitors, and the hum of local life is less prevalent. Porto also has tastier, more affordable food—which you can’t beat!

That said, both the Douro Valley (Porto) and southern countryside (Lisbon), each less than two hours from their respective cities, offer truly magical landscapes and a much-needed sense of calm from city fatigue.